Wander Woman, Misty Ewing
A Girl's Guide to WHERE IN THE WORLD IS MATT LAUER:
What, Where, How, When & What to Wear

Friday, May 4, 2007
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA


Where:
Day Five finds Matt ending his journey in one of the world's most beautiful, exciting and eclectic cities, Cape Town, South Africa! Visitors immediately fall in love with this city - not just because the residents have the best accents going - but because there is so much to offer. Upon arriving here, you will undoubtedly be met by warm smiles, friendly faces and a slightly wicked sense of humor.

Known as the "Mother City" and home to approximately three million residents, Cape Town is also South Africa's legislative capital. Granted, Cape Town, and South Africa in general, has experienced a checkered past. However, they've made great strides in moving forward to become an inclusive nation, celebrating its diversity and multicultural history. A destination unto itself, Cape Town offers plenty to do. It also works as a great introduction to the country before exploring the Garden Route or going on safari, both within South Africa and beyond.

Perhaps it's the natural beauty of the area - the surrounding mountains to one side, the convergence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans to the other - but you can't help but forget the stresses of the daily grind in just a matter of minutes.

Capetonians enjoy a very relaxed way of life, which is evident in their calm, teasing manner. And they know how to have a good time! From the lively Victoria & Alfred Waterfront to the beauty of the Cape Peninsula with the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point, read on to find the best hidden spots to explore.

What:

Cape Town is an interactive destination, meant to be "done" and not "seen," and you will never be at a loss for ways to spend your time. Table Mountain, the flat-top mountain overlooking the city, is the most notable icon. Take time to explore Table Mountain National Park; Mike Lundy will show you how. Mike is the authority on hiking and trail running in the area and his book, Best Walks in the Cape Peninsula, is a good read.

The beaches beckon as well, and because they're fairly close together, you can visit several in a day. The Atlantic side is more developed - fun shops and restaurants - but the water can be almost 20 degrees cooler than its Indian Ocean counterpart. The white-sand beaches of Camps Bay, Clifton and Llandudno, along the Atlantic, offer beautiful views and spectacular sunsets. Considered the more trendy beaches, you'll find many locals at these spots. The beaches of False Bay tend to attract more families due to their quieter atmosphere and the warmer, shallower water in the bay. Wherever you go, just remember to bring your "baggies" - I mean, your swimming "costume."

Then you have the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, bustling with activity and the spot to find a multitude of shops, restaurants and places to visit, including the Iziko Museums of Cape Town and the Planetarium.

Wend Your Way to the Winelands

Cape Town is also a stone's throw from some remarkably good vineyards and this makes for a great daytrip, particularly to the towns Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. The Cape Grace hotel will even lend you their Wine Sommelier for the journey, to ply you with expertise (as well as wine). For a real adventure, take a sidecar motorcycle - just remember to pack your white scarf and Jackie-O glasses.

Meander Along the Garden Route, the drive that stretches along the southern coast, where the mountains reach the ocean. Resorts and coastal villages line the way, but go for the spectacular scenery and serenity. It's a 5-hour drive, so prepare to stay a night or two. I recommend stopping along the way at a beautiful little spot in Hermanus called Birkenhead House, either to overnight or lunch - it will break up the drive. Pezula Resort Hotel & Spa in Knysna, perched high above the Indian Ocean, is the ideal spot for your end destination. Golf at the Championship course, relax at the spa named the best in South Africa, bask at the beach or just unwind and do nothing. And if Pezula doesn't work itself into your itinerary, still venture to the Garden Route - it's worth the drive!

Set Your Sights on Safari

Confession time: I am obsessed with going on safari. I think it's a spiritual, awe-inspiring, life-changing experience (on par with Bhutan). Unless you suffer from zoophobia (and let's face it, Africa should not be your destination of choice if you do), I don't know why you'd come all this way and not experience a safari.

For a close(r) option, try Bushman's Kloof (Cederburg Mountains, South Africa). Only about 170 miles north of Cape Town, Bushmans Kloof is a privately owned wilderness reserve, world renowned for its 130 rock art sites. Declared a South African Natural Heritage site for its rich cultural, historical and environmental significance, the reserve has reintroduced a number of species into the area, including the rare cape mountain zebra, black wildebeest and ostrich.

Further into South Africa, near the northeast area, you'll find the game camps and lodges of Sabi Sand Game Reserve and Kruger National Park. If you can make the trip, a plane ride or two away depending on where you go, I highly recommend it - this is where you'll find the big game.

What to Wear:

Bargains Abound...

Thankfully the dollar is still mighty here, so you can get in some pretty good shopping. Your one must-have item: Springbok-hide bags from IMAGENIUS (117 Long St; 27 21 423-7870) - cute and fuzzy, it's like carrying a small dog that you don't have to feed. Jewelry lovers, you're in luck too, especially if gold is your color. And check out the local beadwork items; the area is famous for it.

Market Watch (Only More Fun)

In general, you'll find better prices on African wares at the open markets. Try the Green Point Market on Sundays - hundreds of stands offering all sorts of woodcarvings and ethnic jewelry as well as paintings and trinkets. Church Street Antiques Market (Church St) in the pedestrian area is definitely worth a browse. The Pan African Market (76 Long St) is one of the best spots to pick up African crafts.

Shopping for a Cause

Streetwires (77 Shortmarket St; +27 21 4262475) The largest selection of wire and bead crafts in the city; it's also a great cause. What started in 2000 as a means of curbing unemployment while allowing people to channel their creativity has now turned into a sustainable business supporting more than 100 permanent employees. Wire Art is uniquely South African, making it the feel-good souvenir of choice.

Where to Rest Your Head (And Delight Your Palate):

These local lovelies are known for the fabulous cuisine:

  • Cape Grace (Victoria & Alfred Waterfront) Situated on a private spot on the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Grace blends traditional elegance and contemporary luxury. The hotel's "one.waterfront" restaurant offers adventurous cuisine, reflecting strong classical foundations with a modern South African influence, all paired with the Cape's best wines. Bascule Whisky Bar and Wine Cellar on the water's edge provides an opportunity to sample the largest collection of whiskies in the Southern Hemisphere. Need help deciding? The Whiskey Sommelier is there to help!

  • The Cellars - Hohenort Hotel & Spa (93 Brommersvlei Rd, Constancia, Cape Town) This five-star Relais & Chateaux Hotel, located in the heart of the beautiful Constantia Valley, exudes understated elegance and charm. The "Greenhouse" restaurant with its emphasis on the indigenous and organic, offers a new dining experience in Cape Town, while the "Cape Malay Restaurant" provides an authentically traditional experience of local Cape cuisine.

  • Mount Nelson Hotel, An Orient-Express Hotel (76 Orange St, Cape Town) Set on the lower slopes of Table Mountain amidst nine acres of lush gardens, you'd never know you're just a short stroll from the city center. The "Cape Colony" restaurant offers an eclectic mix of contemporary Southern European and Western Cape trends, with a special Chef's Table option in the heart of the kitchen. The "Oasis Restaurant" is perfect for alfresco dining, with health-focused meals prepared to your exact specifications. However, the hotel is probably most famous for its decadent Afternoon Teas served daily in the Lounge. But don't forget the stylish Planet Champagne and Cocktail Bar, with its lovely garden terrace.

In the Winelands

  • Le Quartier Francais (16 Hugenot Rd, Franschhoek) A small, privately owned inn situated in the French Huguenot valley of Franschhoek, with a reputation for warm, world class service. Le Quartier Francais is legendary for its innovative cuisine, using seasonal local ingredients, with an endless list of awards to show for it.

    Guests have a variety of dining options: The Tasting Room and iCi, located at the inn. Further in the village are Delicious and Bread & Wine Vineyard Restaurant, situated at the family wine estate Moreson. Whether you stay for a meal or the entire night, you should not miss this experience!

Get Out of the Hotel:

  • And head to the The Africa Cafe (108 Shortmarket St; +27 21 422 0221) A meal here is like a journey through Africa. Try the Communal Feast, a combination of traditional yet innovative dishes passed through generations, intended to be shared with everyone at your table.

The Pretty Hotel Without the Pretty Price

  • The Cape Cadogan Hotel, a lovely bohemian chic boutique hotel located in the Gardens area of Cape Town, was declared a national monument in 1984. Inspired by literary figure Oscar Wilde, this unique little spot offers tranquility while not sparing on the style.

Your Best Links to the Past

  • Footsteps to Freedom City Walk (+27 21 465 2032) Get the story of Cape Town and its people through this 3-hour guided walk of historic sites, like the Grand Parade, Company's Garden and St. George's Cathedral. The tour covers early trading, slavery, apartheid, freedom, and urban regeneration. Departs from the Visitor Information Centre at the corner of Castle St and Burg St, Mon-Sat at 10:30.
  • District Six Museum (25A Buitenkant Street; +27 21 466 7200)
  • The District Six Museum, established in December 1994, is dedicated to the cultural diversity of this community and the history of some 60,000 residents who were forcibly removed from their homes.

Activities to Scare the "Bejeepers" Out of You:
(Life Insurance Sold Separately)

Great White Adventure (Unreal Dive Expeditions; +27 21 553 0748)

Just off the coast of Simon's Town in False Bay, you will find Seal Island. As the name implies, Seal Island is home to an enormous colony of Cape fur seals, a delicacy if you are a Great White shark. It is also the spot where you're most likely to see these fantastically frightening creatures breaching. Best times to go: April to September when the seals are plentiful. Watch from the comfort of the boat for about $ 210 per person. Or, get up close and personal with these predators by plunging into a cage dive. For about $140, you'll learn what it feels like to be lunch!

There's South African, and then there's "Sufrikan"

Cape Town offers the most highly concentrated number of surf spots in South Africa - 49 of them within an hour's drive of the city. The west side of the Cape facing the Atlantic Ocean is where you find the majority of the breaks (the fiercest ones, anyway). The others fall along the eastern coast, facing the Indian Ocean.

The folks at Downhill Adventures (+27 21 433 1527) claim they can teach you to surf in a day (yeah, right!). If you'd prefer to go above ground, they'll take you to 10,000 feet of the Cape for a tandem swan-dive. Once you quit screaming, you'll have 25-30 seconds of free-falling to enjoy the view.

Wave Riders

Those who can't do, watch - and I'm perfectly okay admitting that's where my skills lie.

The annual "Red Bull Big Wave Africa" surfing contest let's you take part in the action without mussing up your hair. The trick - knowing how to time it. Not even the surfers know when they'll get called up to the show. Organizers monitor conditions off the Cape at Dungeons between June and August, looking for the perfect swell. The participants only have 48 hours to hightail it to Cape Town.

Spectators can watch from Sentinel Ridge in Table Mountain National Park. Or, if you prefer the motion of the ocean, you can meet up with one of several charter companies from Hout Bay. Either way, you'll witness some of the most powerful surfing available.

Kid Town:

Cape Town is very family friendly, offering plenty of activities with an educational slant.

  • Boulders Penguin Colony (Boulders Beach, Simonstown)
    African Penguins own this beach, but they'll share it with you. You can even swim alongside the little guys, provide you can keep up!

  • Two Oceans Aquarium: A Window on the Oceans of South Africa (Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; +27 21 418 3823)
    The Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet at the tip of Southern Africa, and with that comes incredibly diverse marine life. Two Oceans Aquarium features over 3000 living sea animals, including sharks, fish, seals, turtles and penguins in their spectacular underwater nature reserve. You can even dive the Aquarium, either in the I&J Predator exhibit, home to sand tigers sharks, large predators, rays and a turtle, or feed the fishes in the gentler the gentler Kelp Forest Exhibit.
  • World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary & Monkey Park
    (Valley Rd, Hout Bay; +27 21 790 2730) Not for those traumatized by Hitchcock. This is the largest bird park in Africa, housing over 3,000 birds and small animals.

In the Know

  • The Best View of the City: On the way up to Table Mountain Cableway, look for a secluded bench - you'll find stunning views over entire city of Cape Town!
  • Noon-Day Gun, which is really more like a cannon, explodes throughout the city precisely at 12:00pm noon each day. (They give it a rest on Sunday.) Venture up to Signal Hill to watch the loading and firing of the gun ... same time, 6 days a week!
  • South Africa boasts 11 national languages. Don't worry, English is among them. South Africa is also commonly known as the "Rainbow Nation" due to the incredible diversity, which is represented in the many colors of the South African flag. (An observation proudly made by my South African friend, Tamsyn.)

Quick Guide:

Where - Cape Town, South Africa

What - A sensual experience for couples - all that raw animal magnetism! But also a good spot for the fam since it's full of fun activities.

How - Fly into Cape Town and use it as a starting point for the rest of your South African experience.

When - Our summer (May to September) is their winter and it can be cool. As is typically the case, this is the less expensive (and les crowded) time to go. For better weather, though, go in December.

What to Wear - Your fancy jeans, and anything fun and funky - think Soho!

Clamoring to get to Cape Town? Who can blame you! Contact Virtuoso to speak with a South African specialist.

This concludes WANDER WOMAN's journey with you. She has enjoyed it immensely, and sincerely thanks you for your observations and interest. Hopefully, she's inspired you to see a bit more of the world.

Sadly, she's back to trailing Mr. Lauer the good, old-fashioned way...stalking. (Just kidding, Matt!)


About MISTY EWING, AKA Wander Woman:

About MistyHer jet may not be invisible, but Misty Ewing is the WANDER WOMAN of travel. By day, Misty is the Director of Public Relations for Virtuoso, where she's spent the past eight years doing what she loves most - inspiring people to see the world while wandering about it, herself. With Prada and Blahniks in tow, she bucks baggage restrictions and single-handedly endeavors to bring back the steamer trunk.

Talking up the world's best luxury travel company is not exactly the toughest job, especially when you consider the perks. She's sipped champagne in Champagne, private reserve vodka in St. Petersburg, ouzo in Greece and sake in Shanghai. She's strode the banks of the Seine and the beaches of the Bahamas, always in fabulous footwear.

Never one to forget her small-town Texas roots, Misty prides herself on knowing how to travel well on any budget. She defines luxury as having an authentic experience wherever she goes. If it includes scuba diving, her truest travel passion, and no Blackberry service, even better. Misty, along with her shoes, fins and steamer trunks, currently resides in New York City. And yes, Misty is her real name.


members say:


Good Write-Up
Thanks for the good write-up on Cape Town. People usually only go off about crime. It's a great city and I lived there half my life. You can't go wrong. And you will never get bored..
--Posted by True Saffie, CT


8y94cjrw8x
jlbunaq2z6w0yd6my 2jwmyv4or494u oloxszdxs4i939
--Posted by 1mukeu7loi, vts145fe20, TN


Thanks for the Worldly Wanderings!
As I sit here, splattered with gummed Cheerios, pureed pears and smashed peas, remnants of my darling eight-month-old's lunch, I realize that the most exciting parts of my week have been my travels around the world with Wander Woman. You've engaged my foggy mommy brain with imaginative wanderings, a welcome retreat from playdates, countless rounds of Itsy Bitsy Spider, and diaper changes. So, from this armchair traveler (and her highchair companion), thanks!
--Posted by Michelle (and J), Seattle, WA


view first post | back to top | send to a friend | view most recent post



Cape Town is FAB!
I went to Cape Town last year and it was simply AMAZING. Everyone should go once in their lives.
--Posted by Christina A., PA
Post Your Opinion