What, Where, How, When & What to Wear
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
CO. CLARE, IRELAND
CO. GALWAY, IRELAND
Where:
It's Day Two and Matt has zipped over the North Pole to find himself at the jaw-dropping Cliffs of Moher, located in western Ireland's County Clare. It's an awesome sight in the purest sense, dramatic in landscape and history.
The cliffs soar some 700 feet above the surging Atlantic Ocean, and stretch on for almost five miles. If you find this in-con-ceivable, you're not alone. The Cliffs of Moher are also known as the "Cliffs of Insanity" from The Princess Bride and as you gaze upon this mystical place, you can't help but long for true love...or at least your own stable boy.
Matt's next stop in this two-part excursion is Galway City located in neighboring County Galway (an important tidbit to note for location's sake below). Galway is a lively, rapidly growing city that is as artistic as it is rich in culture and tradition. As home to the National University of Ireland, you get the fun yet cerebral atmosphere that comes from a college town. Galway, with its significant expat population, has long been a haven for artists, musicians and free-thinkers.
What:
With Galway City as a central hub, you can easily visit the other must-see areas. At the risk of making this story read like War and Peace, here is a bit of info on each:
Co. Galway includes Galway City and the countryside of Connemara National Park. You're not likely to find the Connemara region on the map, but make sure you allow time to explore the area - it's a beautiful region that celebrates its Gaelic language and Celtic heritage. For more on Galway City, read on below.
An hour ferry ride away from Galway City lie the three Aran Islands, also part of Co. Galway: Inis Mor (Big Island), Inis Meain (Middle Island) and Inis Oirr (East Island). I'd like to say they've been untouched by the modern world, but at least they've been touched less. The islands' isolation has helped the area maintain its culture as a fishing community while attracting writers and poets. Tradition is big here - music, dance, history - and the geology is fantastic.
Further south in Co. Clare, you'll find The Burren, a fascinating lunar-like landscape spanning over 100 square miles that has not altered its state since the Ice Age. Aside from admiring the startlingly stark setting, you can explore the region's Ailwee Cave and find the famed Galway Hookers (and by that, I mean sailboats) during the August festival. Continuing on, you'll reach the remarkable Cliffs of Moher.
Thanks to the new visitor's center tucked cleverly into the hillside that opened this past February, you have no reason not to go. Make a day (or two) of it, and explore the entire Co. Clare.
What to Wear:
Western Ireland is known for its crafts, wares and artwork. For a good sampling of everything, visit Doolin Crafts Gallery (Doolin, Co. Clare; +353 65 707 4309), conveniently located near the Cliffs of Moher.
For the romantics, the famous Claddagh Ring is thought to have originated in the Claddagh Village (formerly on the fringe of what is now Galway City). While it may or may not be true, they get credit for popularizing the now recognized symbol of love for Ireland. To find your own version of the ring, try Fallers (Williamsgate St, Galway City; +353 91 561 226).
Aran sweaters AKA the "fishermen sweater": As legend has it, the various unique stitching symbolized the fisherman's family so that he could be identified from afar (or, more morbidly, if he drowned at sea and washed ashore). Probably another case of folklore being better than reality, but either way you can't dispute the comfy factor. While hard to choose one particular place to procure your own, you will find them throughout the area in either the traditional "natural" or modernized colors.
What's Going on in Galway City:
- Trad on the Prom: May - September 2007 (Salthill Hotel, Salthill, Galway; +353 87 238 8489) The traditional mix of music, song and dance showcases Galway's beloved Mairin Fahy, a featured dancer with "Riverdance" and "The Chieftains."
- Galway Early Music Festival: May 17-20, 2007 - "A swashbuckling weekend of medieval, renaissance & baroque music on the shores of the River Corrib, Galway." (And I've been wondering where to swashbuckle.)
- Galway Arts Festival: July 16-29, 2007 - An international program of theater, spectacle, dance, visual arts, music, literature & comedy involving hundreds of artists and performers. Come this summer to celebrate the festival's 30th anniversary.
Golfing Galway:
I'd be remiss if I didn't mention golf because the courses are legendary in Ireland. That said, I'm not going into much detail because, with the exception of watching Tiger Woods (and let's face it, I'd watch him do anything), golf is not my thing. These courses, though, are indisputably worth the journey.
- Lahinch (Co. Clare; +353 67 708 1003) Touted as the finest natural links course, it was designed in part by Old Tom Morris of St. Andrews fame. Dating back to the late 1800's, this course like many in the U.K., has hosted some of the world's best golfers.
- Doonbeg (Co. Clare; +353 65 905 5624) Luxury meets links golf at Doonbeg Golf Club, the much lauded Greg Norman-designed course. A private Club with some public play, the picturesque location and impeccable service offer Members and guests the ultimate links experience.
Where to Dine, Drink & Kick Up Your Heels:
Lunching with the Locals
- Moran's Oyster Cottage (The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co. Galway; +353 91 796113) Guinness and Galway Bay oysters - how can you go wrong? Six generations of this family-owned restaurant will tell you, you can't! Moran's sits about 11 miles from Galway City, so take time to explore the area.
- Kiwan's Lane Restaurant (Just off Cross Street and Quay Street, Galway City; +353 91 568 266) Bistro fare for the whole family, this was Galway's first-cutting edge restaurant. Staying true to its roots, the seafood is a mainstay, but look for Asian influences.
Note: Most of these pubs are located on pedestrian streets, so you can literally crawl if necessary.
- Freeney's Bar (19 High Street, Galway City; +353 91 562 609) Bright, airy and perfect for conversation; modern, with some vestiges of times past.
- The Quays (Quay St, Galway City; +353 91 568 347) Formerly a tiny, thatched cottage until it was knocked down and built as a cellar-like tavern with church pews. There is traditional music on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings.
- Sheridan's on the Dock (Galway Docks, Galway City; +353 91 564 905) The self-professed cheapest pint in town.
- Tigh Neachtain (17 Cross St, Galway City; +353 91 568 820) A century-old family business in the heart of the medieval quarter of Galway. Housed in the building that used to be the townhouse of famous politician and animal rights activist Richard Martin, known as Humanity Dick, it has varied history, particularly as one of the main homes of traditional Irish music in the West.
As the saying goes: "Buy a man a beer and he wastes an hour. Teach a man to brew and he wastes a lifetime." You, my friends, are probably not men, meaning beer will not likely be the focal point of your Irish stay. However, you should know what you're getting yourself into, just in case you're not a regular beer drinker.
- The Stouts - Guinness, Beamish, and Murphy's
- Lager - Harp
- Ale - Smithwicks
Where to Rest Your Head
In the Thick of Things
The g Hotel (Wellpark, Dublin Rd, Galway City) This visual fantasy designed by Philip Treacy is an unexpected surprise. You'll find a mixture of glamour and contemporary elegance. Even if you don't stay, consider the hotel's restaurant, Riva, with its acclaimed Italian cuisine, and The g's Bar, known for its bespoke cocktails.
Hotel Meyrick (Eyre Square, Galway City) A historic hotel in the grandest tradition, with over 160 years in hospitality history. You can't beat this hotel's great location on the Square. Lady (and Lord) of the Manor
St. Clerans Manor House (Craughwell, Co. Galway) A little bit of Hollywood in the countryside, this former home of director John Huston is now owned by Merv Griffin. The 18th-century manor home rests on 45 acres of gardens and grounds. Even if not staying, the restaurant should be on your must-do list. Japanese chef Hisashi Kumagai, a Euro-Toques Member, prepares both European and Oriental cuisine. Lisdonagh House (Catherlistrane, Near Headford, Co. Galway) The estate provides plenty of options at different prices: an early Georgian Manor, Country House Bed and Breakfast, Villas and a Victorian Lodge that is perfect for families.
Killeen House (Bushypark, Co. Galway) A 19-century home on 25 acres, just on the fringe of Galway City. Choose your style ... each of the six guestrooms has its own personality: The Garden Suite, Georgian, Regency, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau. The Twelve (Bearna Village, Co. Galway, 10 minutes from Galway City) Decidedly more town than country, this modern boutique hotel sits on the edge of Connemara. Consider it a stylish country retreat, where your pooch will be more pampered than you.
Dromoland Castle (Newmarket on Fergus, Co. Clare) You couldn't have it better if you were actual royalty. Dromoland Castle is one of the few castle hotels that can trace the owning family's royal heritage. Indulge your inner princess at the spa while your prince takes advantage of the Golf Club and Academy.
- Galway's Pedestrian Streets: Quay St, High St, Abbey Gate St, William St, Main Guard St, Shop St and Eyre Square West
- Roll With It: Cycling around Aran Island's Inis Mor is a popular way to explore the island. For a day trip, most people cycle to Dun Aonghasa once arriving off the boat, though the brave ones venture to complete the ring of Aran, a circular path that takes you to several attractions. (Aran Bike Hire)
- From Whence You Came: Trace your Irish roots! See if your name appears here, or take a look at the Cobh Heritage Centre, the point from which many an Irishman immigrated.
Finding Your Spiritual Side
Kylemore Abbey & Garden (Co. Galway in the Connemara region; +353 95 41146) This exquisite abbey, originally built as a castle in the 1800's, is home to the Benedictine Order of Nuns in Ireland. No relationship woes, no fashion traumas, just a peaceful Gothic home overlooking a lake and 6 acres of Victorian gardens - they may be on to something.
Galway Cathedral (Nun's Island, Galway City; +353 91 563577) A beautiful, Renaissance-style Catholic cathedral, capable of seating 1500 people, with an impressive art collection inside. Interestingly for Americans, you'll find a mosaic of John F. Kennedy, a gift to the Cathedral following his assassination and one of two memorials to this popular former-President (the other being a bust in Eyre Square).
Best Occasion to Wear Your Fancy Hat:
The Galway Races: July 30 - August 5, 2007
Quick Guide: Where - Galway City and The Cliffs of Moher
What - An unlikely romantic retreat, the perfect place for families to (re)discover their Irish heritage, or discover your own artistic community
How - Fly into Galway Airport, Shannon Airport or drive the 3.5 hours from Dublin
When - Go in the summertime for the best weather and fun festivities. Go in the spring/fall when the weather makes it more authentic and you can mix with the locals.
What to Wear - Take your walking shoes, meaning your 2-inch heels, not 3-inch. Getting wet is a badge of honor, but take your umbrella even in the summer. Buy your Aran sweater there. Interested in gallivanting in Galway? Contact Virtuoso to speak with an Ireland specialist.
Take a look tomorrow as WANDER WOMAN continues crossing the globe while taking you with her. Tomorrow's secret location? ...Just you wait! Talking up the world's best luxury travel company is not exactly the toughest job, especially when you consider the perks. She's sipped champagne in Champagne, private reserve vodka in St. Petersburg, ouzo in Greece and sake in Shanghai. She's strode the banks of the Seine and the beaches of the Bahamas, always in fabulous footwear. Never one to forget her small-town Texas roots, Misty prides herself on knowing how to travel well on any budget. She defines luxury as having an authentic experience wherever she goes. If it includes scuba diving, her truest travel passion, and no Blackberry service, even better. Misty, along with her shoes, fins and steamer trunks, currently resides in New York City. And yes, Misty is her real name. Wander women say
About MISTY EWING, AKA Wander Woman:
Her jet may not be invisible, but Misty Ewing is the WANDER WOMAN of travel. By day, Misty is the Director of Public Relations for Virtuoso, where she's spent the past eight years doing what she loves most - inspiring people to see the world while wandering about it, herself. With Prada and Blahniks in tow, she bucks baggage restrictions and single-handedly endeavors to bring back the steamer trunk.
Could he be here? Aran-Isles.com
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